My new DD, the CTS Thread

[Andrew @ PlanetLSX]

Some of you saw that I picked this up last weekend. I've started "changing" it to look a little better. It's a 3.2L V6 with a 5 speed manual transmission (Getrag 260). They're pretty rare. It's been fun to drive a stick once again.

Here's how it looked on the lot when I bought it. Not bad, fairly clean. Interior is nice (it's ebony). Hot for Texas, though!

http://www.planetlsx.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1237&stc=1&d=1282528428

I got the windows tinted on Wednesday. Legal tint, it's darker in the pic than in reality.

http://www.planetlsx.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1238&stc=1&d=1282528428

One of the first things people were noticing were the sun damaged headlights. They both looked like this:

http://www.planetlsx.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1239&stc=1&d=1282528428

I spent a couple hours last night and today working on that. Spent some time with sandpaper - 600 grit wet, 1500 grit wet, 2000 grit wet, and a Porter Cable DA with some 3M buffing compound...

http://www.planetlsx.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1240&stc=1&d=1282528428

Much better. :)

http://www.planetlsx.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1241&stc=1&d=1282528428

Don't worry, the grille won't be hanging around much longer. ;) I have more mods planned very soon, will post as I go.

I also put some sound deadening material (Damplifier) in the trunk area, and I removed the back seat today so the window tinters could retint the rear window (they couldn't get in very well around the package tray, and screwed it up - they really need the package tray removed, so I removed it for them, along with the rear seats - so they could get a good tint. They wanted to remove the window and tint it... ha, no thanks! I don't mind, I wanted to put sound deadener in anyway.) Saw some broken glass in the rear seat area... apparently a drivers' side window was busted out at some point.

[Iroc313]

I always see the headlights hazed over like that when they come in at the dealership.

Well done on the wetsanding! Makes them look infinitely better.

[Nine Ball]

1. lowering springs
2. 86 that front plate holder and fill the holes
3. V grille

Done. I actually like those factory wheels, as long as they aren't curbed or anything.

[tones2SS]

Car is looking better already Andrew. Tint looks good and you did good with the headlights.
I agree with Tony on the front plate holder.:pimp:

[Andrew @ PlanetLSX]

Lowering & Paint may happen next year, not sure. Too busy with studying right now to do anything more than a couple hours a week on the car.

V grille should be here this week. ;) As will a few other goodies. The Helm manual (all 18 lbs of it) arrived last week. The number of computers / systems in this car is staggering to me. :lol:

[Andrew @ PlanetLSX]

Went out to my work's shop during lunch and messed with their OTC Genisys scan tool in the car. Pretty cool. It'll connect to the dozen or more modules inside the car. I was looking to see if it would program my new 'spare' key fob, but it can't. It can connect to the key fob module though, and tell me when I'm pushing buttons...

I need to find someone with a Tech II.

[demonspeed]

Have some problems removing that front plate?

[Andrew @ PlanetLSX]

Front plate landed somewhere between Georgetown and Waco. :lol: Blew off during the haul home. Was there when I loaded the car on the trailer, was gone when I got home.

[Andrew @ PlanetLSX]

Mo' bettah?

http://www.planetlsx.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1245&stc=1&d=1282608201

http://www.planetlsx.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1246&stc=1&d=1282608201

[Pro Stock John]

PSJ likes this.

[MetallicaMatt]

Looks 100X better!!

[Nine Ball]

Damnit, remove that UGLY front plate holder! I'd rather see the tiny holes left over from it. LOL

[tones2SS]

Damnit, remove that UGLY front plate holder! I'd rather see the tiny holes left over from it. LOL

This.^^^

[kerryt1]

Bumperplugs.com

http://bumperplugs.com/photos/before-after.jpg

[demonspeed]

Bumperplugs.com

I went to the dealer and bought some interior trim clips and a bottle of touch up. A little sanding and two coats later, they worked just as well - for less than $10. I am guessing that's all this guy is doing.

[Andrew @ PlanetLSX]

Yeah, my 94Z has been running with plastic body plugs in the nose for 13+ years now, since Georgia has no front plate requirement, and I pulled the bracket in '96 or 97.

I may have some silver touch up paint at home already, have to check. I think I bought some for my son's pinewood derby car last year. Probably have plastic plugs too.

[JJRRACING]

Why do I have this mental picture of you making these plate hole plugs on your lathe???
Lol

[Andrew @ PlanetLSX]

There is a part for this car that I plan to make on the lathe, but it's not a nose plug. ;) I'm going to make them in the spring. May even be able to sell them (not much, but a little).

[Pro Stock John]

Does the V have a little lip spoiler too? I know for my Acura TL I got one that attached with double-sided tape.

[Andrew @ PlanetLSX]

Shh, you're getting ahead of me now. Wait until the weekend... ;)

[kerryt1]

Good:

http://www.spoiler-town-usa.com/images/ABS175A-2.jpg

Bad:

http://www.spoiler-town-usa.com/images/ABS167A.jpg

Ugly:

http://www.spoiler-town-usa.com/images/ABS135A_Cadillac_CTS.jpg

[demonspeed]

^ What he said.

[Andrew @ PlanetLSX]

No worries. :) It's all "good"...

Got the car back from the tint place again, back window looks good (except for all the dots :bang: ).

Edit: so I was walking around the house a few minutes ago, and spot a long flat box next to my wife's scrapbooking table... I thought... "Huh, that is just about the right size..."

{it's just placed on there in these pics, I'll actually attach it this weekend... $120 shipped, prepainted!}

http://www.planetlsx.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1247&stc=1&d=1282693360

http://www.planetlsx.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1248&stc=1&d=1282693360



And not just 2 holes - but 4! (the holes are about 1/4" apart :bang: )

http://www.planetlsx.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1249&stc=1&d=1282697925

[Z Fury]

You wasted zero time on that thing. I really like the changes. :thumb:

[Nine Ball]

Remove the dealership decal of the trunk sucka!

[Pro Stock John]

I love those pre-painted spoiler deals, that's about what I paid for a copy of the TL little lip spoiler.

[Richiec77]

Lookin good man. Guess when I brought the CTS-V by it sparked something.

[Ragtop 99]

Looks nice. good work on the headlights.

[Andrew @ PlanetLSX]

OK, nearly done with the outside. Need to do the noseplugs (ran out of time today), and maybe clear side markers and clear fogs, but those would be later. Getting rid of the amber up front would give it a cleaner look. The spoiler is bolted on (drilled holes in the decklid). Amazingly all 4 holes lined up on the first try. :lol:

I've done bright white LEDs on the inside, but next weekend brings the stereo install. :)

http://www.planetlsx.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1264&stc=1&d=1283017096

http://www.planetlsx.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1265&stc=1&d=1283017330

http://www.planetlsx.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1266&stc=1&d=1283017330

[Richiec77]

OH!?!?!?!?! On Stereo....You know you have a access to a bunch of stuff. High-end stuff. And some is probably still inside that GTO still. There's also the Focal 165K2's at the house. The 2 or is it 3 amps. The Dynaudio 3 way. HU those assholes stole......

Yeah man. Hit me up on this one.

[Andrew @ PlanetLSX]

Well, it's not in the GTO anymore ;) But the stereo stuff is in their proper boxes on shelves. The GTO is an empty shell. Literally nothing left in it except glass.

I never heard back from you about selling the sub enclosures (I have a buddy with a GTO that's interested). PM me a price without the speakers.

I'm installing one of these: JVC AVX830 (http://mobile.jvc.com/product.jsp?modelId=MODL028634&pathId=133&page=2). No navigation (I don't need it, I know where the heck I'm going :lol: ). Under $500. Detachable face panel. I don't plan to do new speakers or amp, should be a pretty easy install - wire up power, ignition, ground, and break the factory head unit wires for L(+/-) and R(+/-) and wire those up to the pre-outs of the JVC and run through the factory amp. This way I can use the steering wheel control for volume, and the Driver Information Center still works. I lose the factory 6-disc changer, Onstar, factory XM, and factory radio tuner. No big loss there. Can't wait to have my MP3s back.

[Nine Ball]

Buy one of these low buck "slim ballast" HID kits, OEM 6K range color, for those projector lights on the car. They make a HUGE difference.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-HID-KIT-SLIM-BALLAST-Kit-Cadillac-CTS-2005-2006-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem35ab63c1bcQQitemZ23050 8708284QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccesso ries

Tony

[Andrew @ PlanetLSX]

Might do HID's next year when I have time to pull the front bumper cover (as you supposedly need to pull the bumper cover to get to the headlights). I do plan to remove the headlights and give them a clearcoat finish next year - probably at the same time I repaint the front bumper. Until I get this PE exam out of the way, can't do more than an hour or two at a time on the car, and right now it can't be down for any amount of time.

[Nine Ball]

Those HID kits are as simple as changing the bulbs. Shouldn't need to remove the headlight assys. There is likely an access panel inside the tire well, or under the bumper. Here are the instructions I came up with:

1. Remove OEM halogen bulb.
2. Plug ballast into OEM harness.
3. Plug HID bulb into ballast.
4. Stick ballast to something, it has 3M tape on it.
5. Stick new HID bulb into socket where OEM bulb was.

Done.

[Andrew @ PlanetLSX]

No, I've looked over at Cadillacforums. To change the bulbs, you have to remove the bumper cover. Of course, to change the grille, you're "supposed" to remove the bumper cover as well (but I didn't... +1 for Grover Arms)... Even in the factory service manual, you have to remove the fascia and headlamp assembly to change the bulb.

[kerryt1]

I assume they're the same, but I think the V guys were buying STS front marker lights because they are clear. Probably worth a look.

http://www.allcarcentral.com/Cadillac/Cadillac_STS-V_2008_sf-as-2008_OEE_0094.jpg

[Nine Ball]

That is F-ING retarded if you have to remove the bumper to change headlight bulbs, LOL!

[Andrew @ PlanetLSX]

I agree, it's stupid. Kinda like mounting the distributor behind and under the water pump on "some other car we know...". :lol:

For the fogs, I was planning on just baking the stock fogs to heat the glue, removing the lenses, and then going back on with clear Lexan. I've seen those STS fogs, they look nice, but cost more money than I want to spend. The Lexan mod is cheap and works well (supposedly).

[Mr CHI]

Very Nice.

You plan on buying some wheels for it?

I'm sure that tint helps with that Texas weather!:nod:

[Andrew @ PlanetLSX]

Tint definitely helped.

No wheels in the plans for a while. Tires are practically new, but right now they're 17" wheels. I'd go back with 18s probably. Haven't even looked at them yet. Maybe after the car's paid off (I'm thinking 6-8 months to pay it off). I'll have Tony pick out a set if I do them though. :) I've seen far more aftermarket wheels that I don't like on the CTS than I have seen wheels that I do like on them.

[Andrew @ PlanetLSX]

The radio is in. Woot. It's not fully wired in / integrated yet, I have a lot of extra wires to find/run before that happens (like parking brake, illumination/dimmer, reverse, I have a license plate frame camera, telephone microphone, etc). But at least I have radio and MP3.

This radio has a removable faceplate, and that made it a pain to fit *exactly* in there so that the mechanism goes in/out easily. A little tilt either direction and it does not work. It took quite a while to move the old electronic guts "up" in the chassis, cut the chassis for the radio, fab plates to center the radio in the chassis (3/16" steel each side), sand, sand, and sand some more the plastic (so that the front face doesn't look hacked), etc. I ran RCA pre-outs straight in to the factory amp. Nice thing is, the steering wheel controls work on the factory amp directly, so I still have volume control without having to buy an external box.

I also changed the LEDs in the DIC. There were 60 of them, surface mount PLCC-2 format. I have a hot air surface mount rework station, so it took me all of 20 minutes to swap them. Unfortunately, I'm not happy with the color I bought - I was expecting "white" to be a little more "blue" than the "yellow" that it is. So I'm going to buy some other LEDs and see if I can find some that I like. I want white with a blue tint, to match the radio.

I went from this:
http://www.planetlsx.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1271&stc=1&d=1283719368


to this (no faceplate):
http://www.planetlsx.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1268&stc=1&d=1283719368

with faceplate:
http://www.planetlsx.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1269&stc=1&d=1283719368

faceplate laid flat (to load DVD):
http://www.planetlsx.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1270&stc=1&d=1283719368

[Richiec77]

(Borat Voice) vEry Noice!

[tones2SS]

Very cool. Enjoy that bad boy!

[cyphur]

Looks great!!

I am envious. The amount of work involved to fit a double din head unit into my Z is seemingly astronomical compared to that. Involves body work on the console bezel. :(

So, tack on $400-$500 on top of the head unit unless you want to hack away at the one in the car. $200 for a good condition one to buy as a trial unit. I'm pretty sure I could eventually get it quite nice, smooth, well textured, but I sure as hell wouldn't want to drive the Z around without the bezel for a week.

[Phantom_LS2]

No, I've looked over at Cadillacforums. To change the bulbs, you have to remove the bumper cover. Of course, to change the grille, you're "supposed" to remove the bumper cover as well (but I didn't... +1 for Grover Arms)... Even in the factory service manual, you have to remove the fascia and headlamp assembly to change the bulb.



GTO's are the same f'n way.

[Brains]

Nah GTO's were pretty easy to change bulbs on. I did mine (HID conversion) without removing much of anything.

[Phantom_LS2]

My bad, changing the bulbs are ok. Pulling the head light itself sucks.

[Andrew @ PlanetLSX]

Thanks guys. Yep, I'm liking it so far. Need to get the Bluetooth wired up, and figure out a few more bits.

I hear ya Travis. I was trying to avoid making my center dash look like this poor fella:

http://www.planetlsx.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1272&stc=1&d=1283901002

Good Lord that's horrible. His is a removable faceplate unit as well. Pictures like that provide justification for my hours of sanding and fitting, creeping up on "just the right size" to make it work.

I did have to move a circuit board, cut part of a circuit board out, etc. Here's the writeup I followed:

http://www.cadillacfaq.com/faq/answers/aftermarketradiodic/index.html

[Andrew @ PlanetLSX]

Still trying to get the LEDs right in the center console. I'm getting closer. Today I colored the white diffuser panel blue (with a dry erase marker, so that I could 'undo it' if necessary). That seemed to work well. Now I just have to pull it out one more time and paint the diffuser panel (between the LEDs and the LCD in the display). That'll get rid of the marker lines that are visible in the pic. It's just about how I want it. I also got the Bluetooth working on the radio head unit today. :)

http://www.planetlsx.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1281&stc=1&d=1284848756

Again compare with the original:

http://www.planetlsx.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1271&stc=1&d=1283719368

[tones2SS]

Looks good Andrew!:woot:

[Andrew @ PlanetLSX]

Well, sometimes when you buy a used car, you drive a gazillion trouble free miles.

And sometimes you run in to a little snag.

In September, I heard my power steering pump making noise on the Caddy. I checked the fluid... it was very low. So I topped it off. Noise went away. Car doesn't leak a drop, so I didn't think there was a problem.

Fast forward to last Thursday, I was about to drive to Ft Worth, and decided to check my power steering fluid level again. Low again. Car still doesn't leak. Where'd it go?

I took a look under the car and this is what I saw...

http://www.planetlsx.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1323&stc=1&d=1288657799

Yep, the inner tie rod dust boots were both swollen up like balloons. :bang: I drove the car anyway, made it there and back just fine, a little noisy on the way home, but otherwise OK.

I got it on the lift yesterday, and the rack is out tonight. A replacement rack is on its way, should be here Wednesday. 400 bucks plus an alignment. Oh well. The rack wasn't too hard to get out, basically unbolt everything and pry it out the drivers' side.

[Z Fury]

There are always worse things to run across. Look at the bright side - at least you have the knowledge and tools to do this fix yourself. Think of how much someone like me would have to pay to fix this problem.

Hopefully this is the only thing you run into before you rack up your gazillion worry-free miles.

[tones2SS]

There are always worse things to run across. Look at the bright side - at least you have the knowledge and tools to do this fix yourself. Think of how much someone like me would have to pay to fix this problem.
Hopefully this is the only thing you run into before you rack up your gazillion worry-free miles.

^^What Z said here exactly.
Good luck Andrew.

[Nine Ball]

Steering racks seem to be made with worse quality in the last few years. I had to replace the rack in my '06 Dodge ram a couple months ago, at only 90K miles. It was so loose that we couldn't even align it properly. Drives much nicer now, though.

[Andrew @ PlanetLSX]

Got the reman AutoZone rack in tonight. Son of a b*tch. All bolted in and tight, the bolt head for the steering shaft coupling hits the frame at 1/2 turn of the wheel both ways. If I loosen the mounting bolts for the rack and pry it just slightly, it clears, but when I cinch it down, the bolt head hits. I don't want to pull the damn thing out (it wasn't easy to get out or in, and I've already added fluid), so I think I'm just going to make some shims and shim the rack up 3/16" or so. The bolt head should clear fine then, and I shouldn't have any issues with angles. Sucks that I have to do this though. Maybe it's my imagination, but the rack didn't go in quite 'level' like the original one was.

[QuickSilver]

I hate that with autop parts stuff. Some times it seems as if you don't buy OEM stuff from the dealer it just doesnt fit right at all. Usully small stuff like happened to you only after its bolted in.